I am starting out dyeing and bought a starter dye kit from another manufacturer with small amounts of primaries, and then a large container of 232 Bright Blue because I could get it cheaply on Amazon. I'm planning to try shibori techniques, and I like indigo, and something I read said 232 is a good primary.

I've been looking on Paula Burch's website for information on which dyes are pure, and what the pure procion dyes that are fairly universal (other than strength) are across different manufacturers and what the names are. I've also read that some of the manufacturers of the pure dyes have quit making Blue MX-G or Jaquard's 070 Cerulean blue.

How does 232 compare with 070? (My computer monitor doesn't have good color reproduction). Something else I read said that 076 was the closest to an indigo. If I have 232, is there a way I can get closer to an indigo if I'm not a perfectionist? Mix it with some black? Make it stronger? Add a hint of yellow or red?

My other question was about building my own dye mixing chart. I had thought of taking the primaries, mixing them with water as in the instructions in Color by Design, then taking an eyedropper and dropping dye into many little containers in proportions for two primaries like: RY/RB/YB, RRY, RYY,.. and three primaries like RRRYB, RRYYB, RYYYB... And then diluting those a little bit (probably two different strengths, and dropping them onto multiple fabrics I might plan to use for dyeing on the long term. 

This will result in a ton of little containers, and rinsing my eyedroppers many times. 
I wondered, do I have to mix the dyes before dropping it onto fabric, or is it possible to drop unmixed dyes on top of each other?
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Jacquardmod Jacquardmod
Wow lots of questions here.  

OK, so the bright Blue is technically not a "procion" dye.  It is Cibacron F, which is also a reactive dye, but is a hotter water dye in the medium range between the CVS hot and cold Procion.  The strength of this dye is unlike any other I have seen in the range, it is really strong and it's strike rate is higher than the other procion dyes, so it can really dominate.  I have been using it at 3.5 grams in an 8oz bottle.  For turquoise I suggest 10 grams(~2 teaspoons) and even at close to 1/3 the strength the Bright blue still comes out with a deeper shade than the Turquoise.  So it is a powerful color, one of my favorites.  

We say our primaries are Turquoise, Magenta and Yellow.  This is true, bukt there are other options for Blue and Red.  Fuchsia is a magenta as well more purple biased while magenta is slightly more yellow.  You can use either color to mix any color, but generally speaking the fuchsia is better for violets, and magenta is better for red, and oranges.  Fuchsia is also a weird color like Bright blue.  It is a procion, but is noticeably faster stricking and more intense than Magenta.  Both good mixing magentas.  

If I am mixing with Turquoise, I use Magenta because Fuchsia is too stong and dominates.  If I am mixing with Bright blue I use Fuchsia.  They go together really well.  

Yellow is the only pure yellow color, so that is our only choice there.

Blue has more than one primary too.  Turquoise is probably the most neutral, even though most would say it has a green bias, but it is very much a cyan.  Bright Blue and Cerulean can both be used as a primary.

The blue go like this from green biased to red biased

Robins egg blue(pastel, weak color bad for mixing)
Bright Blue*
Cobalt Blue*
Medium Blue*
Ice Blue
Midnight blue

I am not sure i am 100% on whether cobalt and Medium are right there or should be swapped.  It is close.  Asterisked colors are pure.  Cerulean is in the middle of changing from a pure to a mix, so everything out there right now is old, but the stuff being shipped in just a few weeks won't be.  No one in the world is manufacturing it now.  Basically, a factory exploded and the production of that color has been halted.  So, unless they figure out another way to make it, you will only get old dye from now on.  The wait will be years if it ever comes back at all.  

The good news there is that you can sub bright blue or Turquoise most of the time to get mixes using this color right.  If you want to mix this color.  I would mix the bright blue and turquoise.  Bright blue is waaay stronger than cerulean though. I  would start with 1/10 the amount of bright blue as cerulean and use turquoise as the rest and see if you like that.  I am not sure of the exact ratio, but you can get really close that way.

Mixing cobalt is tough for more than one reason.  It is not just a pure blue, but the only truly "deep" blue.  It has a high color density, so it can get darker than the other blues, much darker.  I have a lot of experience mixing deep colors and it is just hard.  You would need to start with bright blue and add orange until you get the cobalt depth of shade.  Then you would likely need some magenta or yellow to nudge it to the correct bias which is pretty close to medium blue.

I'd guess you would need like 15% Orange to darken the bright blue to the extent you would need to.  It might be even more.  I think it would probably look too yellow at that point and would need some magenta, but because you are using bright blue, maybe fuchsia would work better.  you would prob need just a pinch.  

Mixing dye before you put it on the fabric is best for seeing the true mix.  It is fine to add colors on top of each other, and they will mix perfectly to give you the shades you want, but keep in mind that dyes have different migration rates on fabric.  that is called "cracking" when the mixed colors separate on the fabric.  That is more noticeable when added separately, but it also happens a lot when you pre-soak in soda ash and then add the dye.  When the fabric is wet, the dye moves easier and stays mixed better.  

If you had bright blue and magenta for instance, because the bright blue is so fast, it would "crack" on dry white fabric and spread out beyond where the magenta spreads creating a blue halo around it.  It would not do that with Fuchsia.  

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So is Cobalt Blue the best Indigo imitation? 

I think that rather than trying an eyedropper for mixing color, I'm going to immersion dye squares that are 6"x 6" or something like that. 
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Jacquardmod Jacquardmod
Immersion dyeing is cool, but you can't get the deep colors without salt.  So use 3x the amount of salt as soda ash.  

Batching will get really dark.  
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