Hi - in one or two threads it was mentioned that idye-poly and idye-natural were best stored in liquid form. Basically, you use hot water to dissolve the bag and dye and store this in a jar. This is a great idea because it allows you to use small amounts of dye and be a bit more precise.

The packages say that they are good for dying a certain weight of clothing: 2-3 pounds, or 1-1.13kg. You can therefore determine how much of the packet to use for lighter garments or amounts of cloth. For example, the garments I want to dye first weigh only 135g (grams), which is just under 0.3 pounds. Were the garment purely poly or purely natural, it should take between 0.135 and 0.15 of the packet to dye it using the metric numbers above or between 0.15 and 0.1 packet using the pound measurements above. The first problem here is that the two weight ranges are not equivalent.

1 kg = 2.2 lbs
1.13 kg = 2.486 lbs

So the metric range does not match the pounds range.

Going the other way:
2 lbs = 0.9 kg
3 lbs = 1.36 kg

As expected, the pound range does not match the metric range.

This leaves some doubt about how to properly portion out the dye since you have to put your faith into one range or the other and then see how it turns out. of course, there are lots of variables about how much dye any given material will absorb, but from all the issue people have it seems the most common error is using too much dye.  The fact there is a RANGE of weight of cloth that can be dyed tells you right away that you can be too-high or too-low by quite a large amount - about 25% if you assume the average or middle of the range to be "sort of accurate". That would mean using 2.5 pounds or 1.06 kg as the "full packet cloth weight". This would put my garment's requirement at 0.143 packets worth of dye.

It seems better to err on the side of too little dye than too much. This also lets you dye more things with a single package.
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To continue with the approach I believe will save a lot of grief for people with dye that runs:

The garments I want to dye first are poly-cotton blends. So, I have to use idye-poly and idye-natural at the same tme BUT I don't want to just dump in the same amount of each. You have to further decrease the amounts by the proportion of each material in the garment.

The garment I have is 80% poly and 20% cotton. So now I have to calculate how much of each packet to use for this garment.

Let's assume the pound range is "accurate" and that the whole packet is good for 2.5 lbs.
My garment is 0.297 lbs

The poly portion is 80%, so I multiply  80% x 0.297 = 0.8 x 0.297 = 0.2376 lbs of the garment is poly. This is only a tiny amount compared to 2.5 lbs, so we calculate that portion as o.2376 lbs divided by 2.5 lbs = 0.095. This is the portion of the idye-poly packet to use for this garment.

We can do a similar calculation for the cotton part OR we can take a short cut and notice that the polyester percentage is four times the cotton percentage: 80 divide 20 = 4. This means the the amount of idye-natural needed is one-quarter the amount of idye-poly, so 0.095 divide by 4 = 0.02376.

Now we have two really tiny numbers: 0.095 for idye-poly and 0.02376 for idye-natural. We can round these to 0.1 and 0.025 to make it easier.
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Part-3 of the portioning example:

Now I have the portions of the whole packets for the idey-poly and idye-natural to use for my quite light garment. This was 0.1 packet of idye-poly and 0.025 packet of idye-natural for the 80/20-poly/cotton blend.

I go to my liquified dyes which I've stored in glass jars and have to extract these tiny precise portions. So how do I do this?

Back in the first part of this adventure, I dissolved each packet with hot water and stored each in a separate jar. An important point I did not mention was to use a measured amount of the boiling water to dissolve each packet. It does not matter if you use millilitres or ounces here, as long as you use a nice round number that you can work against. For this situation it is easiest to use 10 of something, whether it is 10-ounces or 10s or ml - likely 100s of ml or even a full litre. Using 10 will make all the portioning easier.

before you take out any dye, shake the jar to make sure nothing is settled and that it is still mixed.

If I've stored my dyes as 10-ounce liquids, then I need 10 x 0.1  = 1 ounce of idye-poly and a quarter of this for idye-natural, or one-quarter ounce (0.25 oz). I can measure these by pouring the dye into a small measuring cup. depending on how easy it is to pour the dye out of the jar, there is another way to pull dye out using a straw. Dip the end of the straw into the jar of dye, then put you finger over the top of the straw. Now lift the straw out of the jar and over to the measuring cup, then take your finger off the end f the straw. The liquid in the straw falls into the measuring cup. You just used a vacuum to move the dye!

As the instructions for the idye say to do, place the garment in the pot with just enough water to cover it. Now add in the measured dye and proceed following the instructions. This extra measuring step should eliminate the waste of excess dye and the ruining of other clothes in the wash. You still have to cool and rinse the garment of excess dye prior to washing it with other clothes.

In all of this, I have a question:
What is the best kind of jar to use? Obviously it must withstand boiling water and should have a secure lid. But, will the vapour from the dye damage a plastic lid? or will it damage the rubber seal of a mason jar? AND hw long can you actually store the dye this way?
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Jacquardmod Jacquardmod
You can store the dye this way indefinitely.  Sometimes it can get moldy, so keeping it closed when not in use is a good practice to keep mold out.  You will see spots of mold in it if it grows, and that should be discarded.  

A mason jar with a metal lid is fine.  Really a plastic lid is ok.  Yes the poly dye may stain it permanently, so just don't use that for food and you are good.  It won't actually damage the plastic, just color it.  
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